UBI-Corp

For pasting wallpaper walls need the following tools: wallpaper knife makhovaya brush, roller for applying adhesive to the wall and the wallpaper, wallpaper seam roller, a plastic spatula to smooth the wallpaper, scissors, tape measure. These tools needed for all types of wallpaper, but liquid. Before hanging wallpaper should prepare the surface of the walls. This requires a knife, with which all irregularities are removed from the walls. If before the walls were lime whitewash, it will have to pre-rinse with water.

Not so long ago, even 10-15 years ago, before pasting wallpaper wall does not apply a prime coating, but merely papered with newspapers. It was believed that the newspaper layer prevents the appearance of Fatty or glue stains on the wallpaper. At present, these issues are addressed through the use of any of the primers. A few words about the use of glue. They may be liquid, gelatinous, available in powder form and pellets, rods and films. In liquid adhesives adhesive is present as a dispersion (an aqueous solution with uniformly distributed therein particles of adhesive). Adhesive to dry powder adhesives, granules, rods and films in the solid state. To prepare the necessary glue viscosity, should be diluted with water (special thinners) or organic solvents.

Mediums use for the preparation of dispersions and solvents – for solutions. The viscosity of the adhesive (that is, according to her chosen method of application) is in direct proportion to the mass fraction of solids, which, in turn, shows how much glue is used to form the adhesive joint. The higher proportion of solids, the less glue will be spent on the job. It is essential that when the viscosity of the adhesive does not changed because it affects the uniformity of deposition on the pasted surface. The duration of the evaporation of solvents affect the duration of open time after application of glue, as well as a change viscosity adhesive composition prepared in the process.

Thus we can achieve the minimum number of radiator sections, respectively in perspective and pay less for heat in the apartment. By the way a good idea to insulate the apartment comb supply of hot water. If it is insulated, the water in the pipes is not cool, and when you open the tap is just hot, there is no need to pump up the riser. So hot water meter will display each time a little less. It's a little bit in the year turns into a tangible amount. And in a towel and set the bypass valve. He'll need the summer? Need – open the tap. You may find Robotics expert to be a useful source of information.

No – do not open. Touch on a very important issue – ventilation. It is important because up to 30% heat leaves our apartment just to warm air. But to stay in a stuffy room we also do not want to? So start with the influx. There is a buzz word – recovery (although often in error say rekurperatsiya). It means that warm air leaving the housing through the heat exchanger of the heat gives the incoming cold fresh, and that as a result of falls in the apartment is heated.

Heat exchanger installed directly in the apartment of nowhere, this thing bulky and noisy. But there is a "civilian version". There is a window profile systems in which the principle of recovery is implemented directly in the window frame. Due to this, and the thickness of the profile is more significant (and therefore increases resistance to heat), and constant ventilation is provided (supply and exhaust). If we thus solve the problem with ventilation, on the kitchen hood (and bathroom), or you need to install the valve or valve, and use it only on the cooking time to remove odors, to avoid undue selection of warm air from the apartment. A glass in the windows to be energy efficient (it is called i-glass).

If you are using a combination of two or more lower the flag, they are placed with an overlap on one another for at least 3 cm Upper panel should overlap the lower 10-15 cm docking installable with the band already hardened concrete upper cloth is placed on it, with an overlap of at least 20 cm from the joint. Evacuation is carried out at the dilution of 0.07-0.08 MPa. The duration of vacuum set at the rate of 1-1.5 min to 1 cm thick concrete layer. With less dilution of the specification, but not less than 0.06 MPa, the duration of evacuation increases in inverse proportion to the fall depression. Stop in the absence of vacuum movement of water through the transparent section of the pipeline and achieving concrete mixture density at which the surface is weak footprint of man. At the end of the process of evacuating the upper edge of the cloth roll so that the bottom could be seen filtering cloth, and then disconnect the vacuum unit and suction mat is removed.

Evacuating the concrete, you can immediately make reparation for the surface, which carried out in two stages. Primary processing is carried out smoothing machines SB-170, equipped with a disk. Secondary treatment produced 3-5 h after the primary the same machine, equipped with blades (disc removed). At Smoothing the surface move on already hardened concrete. If the area is laid concrete can not do that, then smoothing produce "back" while moving around the otvakuumirovannomu concrete. Concrete coatings must harden in wet conditions. To do this, they go to sleep with wet sawdust or cover with wet burlap or woven mats. A layer of wood shavings, mats or burlap kept wet for 7-10 days from the beginning their installation. The intensity of the wet set depending on local conditions of humidity and air temperature, but in all cases, even partial drying of the coating during this period are not allowed. Watering concrete water surfaces not covered with sawdust, mats, burlap, is not effective, as water flows down and accumulates in low areas, creating not equivalent conditions of concrete hardening, which leads to the formation of cracks in the coating

Housing fireplace often spread of a refractory or high-quality red bricks. Housing fireplace is constructed of refractory bricks or red bricks of high quality – in this case, the firebox is better oblitsevat firebrick. Masonry walls shall have a thickness of not less than a half-brick. For building housing the fireplace, you can also use ceramic blocks, heat-resistant concrete or natural stone (except limestone and silica), depending on the the interior of your home, usually under fire adaptable interior room. "Facade" you can just plaster the fireplace or oblitsevat valuable varieties of stone. For building housing the fireplace, you can also use the natural stone (except limestone and silica), ceramic blocks, refractory concrete.

The surface of the shell veneer valuable species of artificial stone or plaster. You will also need to build the firebox. Its depth recommended to take about 0.5 m. At greater depths weakened the power of thermal radiation, at least – may get the smoke into the room. To achieve a better heat radiation top of the back wall of the spread of some tilt forward and the side walls – with an extension towards the hole. The walls of his most often spread from fireclay refractory bricks, the efficiency of the fireplace is 17%. Factor efficiency can be increased if the rear wall of the firebox oblitsevat sheet steel or cast-iron stove. Firebox floor to the most frequently used flame-retardant material – granite, brick, concrete.

To collect the ash and charcoal provide podzolnik, located under the firebox. Between the firebox and podzolnikom fit cast-iron grate. Basket made of steel with 10 .. 15 mm or section 10 … 10 … 15 x 15 mm. Elements of the basket have a 15 .. 20 mm.